Strong, striking and structured Gareth Pugh’s spring collection demanded your attention from the very first look. With a bombastic pre-show film starring Crystal Renn setting the mood, Pugh created an atmosphere of pure drama. Just when you thought things couldn’t get any wilder they did and with each successive piece he upped the ante. Criss-crossing cubes of transparent netting adorned the first few dresses, garnering gasps from the audience, while the Phillip Treacy masks of the finale had Paris’ most jaded fashionistas clapping. Intense graphics were the collections dominant motif: stripes and armour-like adornments added interest to the ensembles, particularly those perilous wedges destined for editorial greatness. Pugh has always been able to move his audience, but this season’s blend of theatricality and craftsmanship ranks among spring’s finest.